I’ve had it since I bought the car a couple of years ago. It is activated through an oil pressure sensitive brake contact placed on the front torpedo plate in the engine bay. Supposedly these are very reliable and should not easily wear out. But I had to push the pedal …
A Chrysler 300 backing out from the workshop to make room for a P1800. Normal service with oil change, oil and air filter. Plus various greasing here and there. My brake contact had gone bad so we also tried to check if there were some air in the pipes but it doesnt appear to …
So, I put that 300 Ohm resistance in and then it was time to check RPM. Fine at idle but what about higher speed/RPM. In a Service Bulletin K-E Målberg found this. Here’s the gear/speed chart for an early P1800. B18D is the P120/PV sport versions of the P1800’s B18B, …
Easier than expected. The tachometer in my car showed too high RPM. I measured it and in idle 850 RPM it showed 2000 RPM. In various forums you can read about a hidden adjustment screw which requires drilling, or you can send your tacho to an instrument repairer. But if you …
UPDATE Early 2016. Still working i.e. batteries last 5+ months which is enough. Case closed. UPDATE Early Nov 2015. Clock on the spot. The new batterypack has worked for 3 months. All is fine. So with a new Multimeter I of course had to measure how much current (Ampere) the clock consumes. The …
I was overly optimistic about my separate power feed to the quartz converted clock. I assumed a 12V battery (type “A23”) would keep the clock going for a year or two. That is not the case. After installation the battery was drained in days. I thought it was a bad battery …
UPDATE: IT TURNED OUT THE BATTERY WONT LAST MORE THAN A FEW DAYS, SEE NEWER POST AUG 2015. Last summer I had the infamous clock mechanism replaced by quartz. When installed I fed it by separate cables from the car battery, something I needed as I have a main breaking switch when …
